Since 2015, the Young Talent Competition allows discovering the next generation of most talented young watchmakers in the world, supports them in their route to independence by identifying their achievements and putting them under the spotlight. F.P.Journe organizes the Young Talent Competition with the support of The Hour Glass, luxury watch retailer in the Asia Pacific region. Both Maisons aim to perpetuate and support the art of haute horology and cultivate the appreciation of extensive horological craftsmanship.
The selection criteria are based on technical achievement, the search for complexity in their realization, the quality of craftsmanship as well as their sense of design and aesthetics. Applicants must have independently designed and created a timepiece or an horological construction. The 2023 Young Talent Competition winner receives a diploma and a CHF 20,000.- grant from The Hour Glass and F.P.Journe, which will allow him to purchase watchmaking tools or finance an horological project.
The jury of the Young Talent Competition 2023 is composed of key personalities from the international horological scene: Philippe Dufour, Andreas Strehler, Giulio Papi, Marc Jenni, Michael Tay, Elizabeth Doerr and François-Paul Journe.
Alexandre Hazemann
AH.02 Signature
Age 23 - Pontarlier - France
Graduated from Lycée Edgar Faure in Morteau, France - July 2022
Introduction_
For the 7th year of watchmaking studies at the Lycée Edgar Faure in Morteau, we are asked to create a school watch. The subject imposed this year was to create a watch with a striking mechanism at the passage of the hours with a display of the hour in instantaneous jump. In addition to the technical constraints, our creative approach had to answer a philosophical question: "What do we need to be happy?”
So it has natural that I turned to the theme of passion. I built the general design of the project on different axes: balance, lightness, pure watchmaking art. AH.02 Signature is inspired by a deep and sincere reflection that gave birth to a rich and sourced creative thought.
History_
This project was realised in collaboration with my long-time friend Victor Monnin. Over the years of studying together, we have come to understand the importance of teamwork. We share a philosophy, a "mindset" similar to that of two brothers. Moreover, our skills complemented each other perfectly. Victor is more involved in project management and organisation, as well as in the machining of components. As for me, I have more facility for the watchmaking construction, the watchmaking calculations which ensue from it as well as the prototyping.
Realisation of the project_
This adventure took place from October 4, 2021 to June 10, 2022. Chronologically, we started by making sketches including the design of the watches from October to November.
We then moved on to computer design and watchmaking calculations from December to January. Then, we manufactured all the components during 2 months, from February to the end of March. I should specify that we made all the parts except for the glass, the bracelet and the basic movement. The components were manufactured with traditional machines (milling machines, pointing machines...) but also with CNC. The movement LJP6900 was delivered in trays, with only the various pointings and millings carried out. We then had to finish cutting the bridges and the plate.
The following month was reserved for prototyping and reliability. This stage was for me the most complex. The goal was to find and solve the problems one by one in order to obtain a functional watch, capable of keeping time with impeccable precision. We then made the entire stainless steel case on a traditional machine to accommodate the double complication movement.
May was reserved for the finishing. I made the satin finishing of the bridge and of the faces with a cabron, the sandblasting of the plate... Finally, I had to find the suppliers to make the electroplating (Ruthenium anthracite). To end, I made the final assembly to have the watch finished and functional for the beginning of June.
It took us almost 8 months and more than 1,200 hours of work to complete our project in its entirety. The pace was very fast (about 15 hours per day) without any break.
How it works_
A striking hour function differs significantly from a quarter repeater. Moreover, considering the synchronisation of the mechanisms, it is necessary to explain the principle of the instantaneous jumping hour.
A striking hour emits one sound per hour. We have chosen to link the jump of the hammer to the jump of the hour. To do this, we used a lever that performs 3 actions for the same cycle. The first action is to constantly stay in contact with the hour cam in the center of the movement. Then, for the jump of the hours, a finger fixed on the lever drives the star wheel when the lever falls on the cam. Finally, for the third action, the lever arms the hammer in its ascending arc and then releases it when the cam jumps to let it strike with all its inertia against the gong.
We have also developed a unidirectional time setting system which allows the rotation of the cam in one direction only, which makes it impossible to break it. A retractable pinion is installed between the timer and the first time setting gear. In the event that the user corrects the time in the wrong direction, the pinion will retract and rotate freely.
Technical specifications_
Diameter: 42 mm / Height: 12.8 mm / Weight: 120 g / Caliber: LJP 6900 re-worked, Automatic movement, Unidirectional time setting, Fully manufactured complications, Striking hour - Instantaneous jumping hour, Power reserve: 50 hours, 14.8 lines - 34 jewels - Frequency: 28,800 V/h / Case: Stainless steel - Water-resistant to 3 ATM, Custom made sapphire crystal - Swiss made, Bespoke strap made in France: Blue alligator / Finishing: All parts are decorated by hand, Hand beveled, Additional plate in nickel silver, grained and laser engraved, Laser engraved and hand varnished dials, Brushed case, Polished bezel, Laser engraved and sandblasted back.
